Barossa and Clare Valley: The Champion and the Contender
By Angus Hewson
RunRig 2022
The 2022 RunRig is beautifully composed and initially understated but with a delightful core of fruit and delicacy. Ethereal aromas of wood smoke, blackberry and crushed spices are matched by classy oak. This is punchy with lavish flavors, firm tannins and acidity that drives a long, youthful finish. The 2022 is tight and unevolved but has plenty of aging potential.
The Steading Blanc 2024
The 2024 The Steading Blanc is a well-controlled expression. The natural exuberance of these varieties is restrained here to provide focus. Exotic melon and grapefruit aromas are lifted by acacia and old oak. Juicy acidity then delivers a linear texture accented by pithy, phenolic grip before finishing long and fine.
The Steading 2023
The 2023 The Steading has a strong Southern Rhône feel to it, with layers of meaty and spicy complexity and supple red fruits in support. The chalky tannins deliver a compact and focused, although quite closed frame with a lingering finish and fine balance promising for cellaring over the medium term.
Hillside Vineyard Grenache 2023
The 2023 Grenache Hillside Vineyard is elegant and composed, offering up fine and detailed aromas of licorice and violet with a touch of bush garrigue. Marked tannins and acidity are currently shading delicate flavors at this young age, suggesting cellar time will benefit this. The 2023 was made from some of the oldest Grenache vines in the world.
The Struie 2023
The 2023 Shiraz The Struie is an elegant expression. It offers up a broad Barossa canvas with star anise and clove tones underpinned by blackberry and mulberry, topped by touches of wood smoke. Tangy acidity leads from the front with edgy tannins and fruit in the background. While often delicious from a young age, this vintage needs time.