The Real Review: March 2026

96

Huon Hooke
REAL REVIEW

The Struie 2024

Deep, dark red-purple colour with terrestrial aromas summning dry earth, terracotta, forest underbrush on a hot day, and chocolate. Full bodied and fleshy with loads of supple ripe tannins and smooth, supple texture. There's a subtle vegetable note that reminds us we are in Eden Valley for at least part of the wine—traces of sage and raspberry that are typical of the higher country. The wine has elegance and harmony aplenty

95

Huon Hooke
REAL REVIEW

The Gask 2024

Very deep, saturated purple-red colour with understated but plum and graphite shiraz aromas that lead into a palate of good concentration and abundant tannins, albeit with smoothly rounded edges. A hint of dark chocolate. Fleshy, ample and long-lasting on the palate. Impressive potential: just needs more time for the full payoff

96

Huon Hooke
REAL REVIEW

Descendant 2023

Deep, dense, glass staining purple-red colour. Black fruits on the nose, along with graphite, ironstone and seed spices. Peppery notes underlying in accord with sumptuous blackberry and dark-plum fruit, maybe a twist of licorice too, and with airing a whiff of apricotty viognier is evident. This has a lot going on, and the palate is powerfiul and long-lasting with real depth and panache. The tannins are abundant and deliciously supple. A big red with grace

96

Huon Hooke
REAL REVIEW

The Factor 2023

Massively concentrated, glass-staining purple colour; the aroma is raw and callow with primary fruit showing little sign of development, but including a worrying whiff of aldehyde. Notes of raw coconut and sherry flor. Raisiny fruit-cake and a trace of licorice too. The wine is full-bodied and power-packed, with black olive/tapenade, chewy tannins that coat the entire interior of the mouth, then a very long finish that suggests this wine will be long lived. The power, concentration and structure of the wine are undoubted, and it's possible my reservation about the nose is an issue with this bottle, and even it might have come good with time. Time is definitely something this wine demands. No doubting the power, concentration and super-ripeness of the wine. Don't touch it for at least two years

92

Huon Hooke
REAL REVIEW

Hillside Vineyard Shiraz & Roussanne 2024

Very deep colour with a good purple tint, and a bouquet loaded with graphite and peppercorns along with herbal nuances, possibly from the white grapes. Full bodied and firm with walnutty oak touches, and a big grip that lingers with a touch of astringency. Food is called for here, or else some cellar time. Good potential.

93

Huon Hooke
REAL REVIEW

The Steading Blanc 2024

The colour is almost water-white, not showing the development we might expect at this age. There are youthful aromas of almond meal, honey, poached stone fruits and vanilla, a curious note of gunsmoke, and on palate a slight impression of sweetness rounding out the charming and accessible flavour. Lots to like here.

91

Huon Hooke
Real Review

Cuvée Juveniles Blanc 2025

Light, bright yellow colour; fresh and herbal aromas with a gentle waxy, lemon-pithy tang that suggests semillon, while the palate is fuller and richer than anticipated, with a glycerol viscosity and richness, ending with a warmth of alcohol, all of which is more reminiscent of a Rhône blend. A hint of almond meal is evolving on the nose as it airs in the glass. This has come out of its shell nicely since my last tasting.

92

Melissa Moore
REAL REVIEW

Woodcutter's Rosé 2025

A pale onion skin copper, this wine has a quite savoury nose of dried rose petals with light dusty cedar and straw notes, and a delightfully lush palate. There's a fine balance of residual sweetness that adds weight, and tangy acidity that refreshes. Great with a spicy salmon tataki or crudo