These grand old vines in Marananga have taken the hot and dry 2019 season in their stride, rising to levels of depth and magnitude of dizzying proportions! The black fruit firmness of Marananga defines its personality, all the more profoundly apparent now for the first time in the contrast with the Lyndoch personality of the Forebear. Full ripeness brings aromatic intensity without jamminess, laced with a magnificent flow of polished, finely structured tannins of mineral finesse that hold a finish of ethereal persistence, hovering unchanged for minutes.
97
Tyson Stelzer THE BAROSSA MAG
The Forebear 2019
The rise and rise of these old vines in Lyndoch is declared dramatically in their solo debut, in a wine filled with all the exoticism, complexity and character that can only come from such grand old age. Deep layers of spice, supple black fruits of all kinds and layers of liquorice and dark chocolate are bathed in supple, fine-grained tannins. I love the contrast here between juicy fruit and intricately confident structure. A wonderfully polished and captivating Shiraz. A dazzling new star has ascended in the Barossa!
97
Tyson Stelzer THE BAROSSA MAG
RunRig 2021
The depth and power that define RunRig find a new balance, transparency and life in the brilliant 2021 vintage, with the stars aligning in the fanatical attentiveness of Nigel Blieschke in the vineyards and Ian Hongell in the winery. The result is both more complex, deeper and more confident than ever – and yet, at the same time, crucially more lifted, more detailed, more lively and more delicious. I love it’s supple, fine-grained texture, its pristine, crunchy blackberry fruits and the subtle, seamless integration of viognier’s exoticism.
96
Tyson Stelzer THE BAROSSA MAG
The Pict 2021
Benchmark Barossa Mataro of stature and character, with a deep core of concentrated blackberry, black plum and liquorice, intricately framed in a fine yet rigid structure of masterfully scaffolded tannins. I love the compact focus of the outstanding, cool 2021 vintage and the way it contrasts the profound depth of this variety. An exemplar of Barossa Mataro and the finest I have ever tasted!
96
Tyson Stelzer THE BAROSSA MAG
The Gask 2022
I have long loved The Gask, and its refinement and focus under the new regime of Torbreck continues to elevate this Eden Valley Shiraz. I love the interplay here between a focused singularity of black fruit, bright acid drive, brilliantly polished tannins of confident, fine-grained, enduring finesse and outstanding line and length. Ian Hongell would like to have pushed its ripeness a little further, but I reckon he’s got it just right, making this one of the greatest and most enduring Gasks yet.
