Tyson Stelzer, The Barossa Magazine
Wine Reviews for Winter June 2019
RUNRIG 2016
96 points
A meaty and spicy RunRig that overflows with all of the inimitable exotic spice complexity of very old Barossa Shiraz. It’s plush, silky and supple, with glorious layers of spice and the silky fine tannins of very old vines, holding with outstanding line and length and no hint of alcohol heat. The paradox of full bodied Barossa Shiraz Viognier, with fine-boned structure, seamlessness and poise.
THE GASK 2017
96 Points
A slick and sophisticated Gask that unites tremendous depth of black fruits with magnificent Eden Valley white pepper and spice, at once compact and yet with immense concentration. Tannins are super fine and very well structured, drawing out a very long finish. Huge potential. It embodies Ian Hongell’s philosophy of power with tension, and achieves this effortlessly, consummately, euphorically.
THE STRUIE 2017
95 Points
A wine of compact precision and deep black fruit density, impressively bright, deep purple in hue, with its proportions held confidently and consummately in place, thanks to a backdrop of firm, fine, consummately managed tannins. It lingers with great length and line. The cool 2017 season came at just the right moment for Ian Hongell’s aspiration of tension at Torbreck. Brilliant.
HARRIS GRENACHE 2017
94 Points
A beautifully spicy and characterful Barossa Grenache that consummately expresses varietal integrity of rhubarb and plum with depth and concentration of blackberries, yet never heavy or broad, held confidently in line thanks to fine, crunchy tannins and effortless persistence. A vintage of clarity and subregional identity in Grenache, uniting here with harmony and beauty, finishing with classy tension and bite. The best Torbreck Grenache I have tasted.
CUVÉE JUVENILES 2017
93 Points
Grenache takes a magnificent lead, flattered spectacularly by the cool, wet 2017 season into a style of crunchy rhubarb, layers of spice and enticing berry compote. Impeccable crunch of fine tannins completes a long finish, in no way wanting of oak or anything else. It’s fresh, crunchy, detailed and alluringly friendly.
THE STEADING BLANC 2018
93 Points
A beautifully textured blend that celebrates the trinity of Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier, brimming with spice and fleshy apricots and peaches, concluding with impeccably managed structure the impeccably integrates the crunch of very well managed phenolic texture with gentle oak structure and fine acidity, providing a lovely effortless seamlessness on the finish.