By Huon Hooke
2016 The Laird
97/100
Very deep, dark red colour with some purple tinges, almost unctuous in the glass. The bouquet is distinctively different to the other Torbreck reds: Dark chocolate, brown spices, dried flowers, freshly-turned earth and a hint of nutmeg. A wide range of spices. Mocha, dark-chocolate-coated black cherries, the palate full-bodied and quietly massive, invading the entire mouth and leaving multi-layered flavours that last and last. A lot of oak has been soaked up by this wine, but, while it certainly influences the style, it's in balance. An impressive wine indeed. (3 years in Dominique Laurent Magic casks)
2018 RunRig
98/100
Very deep red/purple colour, with a more reserved bouquet of black fruits, dark chocolate and licorice, the latter coming through more strongly on the palate. It's full-bodied and richly-flavoured, with ample tannins that run the full length of the palate leaving a cleansing but balanced after-grip. Superb intensity, line and length; not a blockbuster but full-bodied and beautifully modulated. Lots of chocolate-mocha and blackberry on the finish. A cracker of a wine and a very stylish RunRig.
2018 The Factor
96/100
Very deep, dark red/purple colour, with a bouquet that shouts north-western Barossa: graphite, ironstone, fresh-turned earth, savoury and complex. The wine is very full-bodied, and strongly built: the carpentry is impressive (that's structure, not oak). Superbly rich, fleshy and sustained through a very long palate and follow-through. It shapes up like a whopper but the tannins are supple and fine, smooth and not at all forbidding as we might have anticipated. Excellent. (30% new French oak. Northern & Western Barossa grapes)
2018 Descendant
93/100
Deep, glass-staining red/purple colour, the bouquet very floral, clearly revealing the viognier component. Dark berries, chocolate and toast as well. A twist of black pepper. The wine is full-bodied, fleshy and dense, the mid-palate generously fruit-sweet and succulent, the tannins fine and soft yet persuasive on the finish
2019 The Struie
94/100
Very deep, bright, youthful purple/red colour. Rich, ripe blood plums to sniff. Subtle flecks of fresh-turned earth and ironstone. A hint of licorice. It's full-bodied and fleshy, soft and supple, with lovely extract and weight in the mouth without heaviness. There is concentration and drive in the mid-palate, and a solid tannin grip to conclude—all in balance. Black fruits, licorice and dark chocolate linger on and on. (Only 20% Eden Valley this year due to very low crops)
2019 The Steading
93/100
Deepish ruby-red colour with a purple tinge. The bouquet is fruit-driven with an array of cooked blood-plum, subtle spices, chocolate and vanilla aromas. The wine is fleshy and supple, rich and smoothly-textured. It's full in the mouth but not a biggie by any means. An elegant and stylish, well-balanced red that drinks superbly right now. (All matured in large foudres—no small oak)