By Huon Hooke
2015 The Laird
Deep, dark red/purple colour, remarkably youthful for its age. The first aroma is of oak, then as the wine airs and warms it reveals toast, dark chocolate, blackberry, blackberry jam and hints of raisin and prune. Very full-bodied and quite rich, although not as opulent or fruit-sweet as some Lairds have been.
There is a touch of restraint here. The big body of the wine is tightened on the finish by masses of firm tannins and quite noticeable acidity, which is more evident when the wine is cool, less so at the right drinking temperature. It will surely be long lived. (Spent 3 years in 100% new Dominique Laurent Magic casks)
Deep, dark red/purple colour and a restrained, dark-fruited and faintly herbal
bouquet. Black fruits and licorice. The wine is big and rich, fleshy and dense, with great concentration and extract yet also elegant structure. It’s deliciously fruit-sweet at the centre and then cleansing tannins dry the finish, which is very long. Superb ripeness. A very smart vintage of RunRig. (Spent 29 months in 30% new French barriques)
Deep, dark red/purple colour with a big, dried herb, earthy bouquet which has
dimension and richness. The wine is big and bold, dense and layered with abundant soft, ripe tannins. This style has breadth and amplitude, with some herbal notes in amongst the red and dark fruits. A bold, ballsy wine with lots of stuffing.
2018 The Gask
Deep, bold purple/red colour, with a lifted perfume typical of Eden Valley, complete with raspberry fruit - a matter of red rather than black fruits. It’s intense and fruit-sweet, lush and rounded, with stacks of flavour but not especially big, nor very tannic. A delightfully lush wine, and classic Eden Valley.
2017 The Factor
Deep, dark red/purple colour and a bouquet of black fruits and graphite, dark chocolate and hints of creosote. It’s a big, bold, ballsy wine with guts and grip, and not as elegantly-structured as RunRig, the finish slightly chewy and
warm from the alcohol. This is a big mother! It will be long lived.
2018 The Struie
(Barossa Valley & Eden Valley) Very deep, bright, bold purple/red colour, with a slightly subdued but spicy aroma which also carries some of the graphite of the Barossa floor. The wine is full-bodied and ample, big and bold, with abundant soft tannins and lovely balance. A big but elegant wine whose texture is finely grained, not coarse. Such generosity, allied to such elegance. (25% Eden Valley)
2018 The Steading
Deep red/purple colour. The bouquet is likewise bright, fresh, clean and attractive, loaded with blackberry flavours and intense palate flavour, medium to full-bodied and with a nice touch firmness to the tannin grip. This has real depth of flavour, richness, and plenty of oomph. Fruitsweet core is typical of the vintage. (53% grenache, 28% shiraz, 19% mataro)