2012 THE LAIRD
RATING: 97/100
FROM: Barossa Valley, South Australia
VARIETY: Shiraz
Matured for 32 months in new French oak. Astonishingly vibrant colour for a 5yo wine. The intensity of this 100% shiraz burns like an arc light across the senses, catching every nuance of the panoply of the purple and black fruits at the core of this remarkable wine. The balance and length are awesome, making a mockery of its alcohol.
2015 RUN RIG
RATING: 97/100
FROM: Barossa Valley, South Australia
VARIETY: Shiraz
Destemmed, open-fermented, 7 days on skins, matured for 30 months in French barriques (50% new) before blending trials determined 2% of viognier be blended in. One of the classic Torbreck wines, with the added benefits of the ‘15 vintage. It is a gorgeously deep pool of supple, mouthfilling/watering fruit flavours (impossible, I know, but it is). Seduction clinically confronts and comforts the consumer. Black fruits, licorice and a shaft of dark chocolate, plus oak, do the business.
2015 THE FACTOR
RATING: 97/100
FROM: Barossa Valley, South Australia
VARIETY: Shiraz
Old, dry-grown shiraz from Gomersal, Krondorf and Marananga, matured for 24 months in French oak (40% new). Dense, inky colour; it is, of curse, gloriously rich, Torbreck DNA found whatever part of the wine you are analysing (or simply drinking and enjoying). Once again, the ‘15 vintage imposes its will.
2015 DESCENDANT
RATING: 97/100
FROM: Barossa Valley, South Australia
VARIETY: Shiraz
92% shiraz crushed on top of 8% viognier, co-fermented, matured for 20 months in 2nd fill French barrels previously used for RunRig. By Torbreck standards it’s medium-bodied, by normal standards full-bodied. There is more textural give and take, presumably from the viognier. At the end of the day it doesn’t matter, the lilt on the finish brings you back to where you began
2016 THE STRUIE
RATING: 97/100
FROM: Barossa Valley, South Australia
VARIETY: Shiraz
Old dry-grown shiraz, 86% Barossa Valley, 14% Eden Valley, matured for 20 months in French oak (12% new). Deep crimson; the wine is archetypal Torbreck style, sweeping away all before its flavours of blackberry, licorice, spice, tar and oak click in, the alcohol just part of the scenery, as are the ripe tannins.
2016 THE STEADING
RATING: 96/100
FROM: Barossa Valley, South Australia
VARIETY: Grenache, Shiraz, Mataro
55% grenache, 28% shiraz, 17% mataro, destemmed, open-fermented, matured for 20 months in large foudres before blending. This is wholly traditional, and also very good. Its complexity and richness have energy, focus and freshness, an ever-changing cast of flavours crossing the palate on their way to the finish. the alcohol in no way imposes itself on you.
2016 HARRIS GRENACHE
RATING: 95/100
FROM: Barossa Valley, South Australia
VARIETY: Grenache
From bush vines planted ‘02, hand-picked, destemmed into a concrete open fermenter, pumped over twice daily for 8 days, matured in used French hogsheads for 12 months. It is a full-bodied grenache notwithstanding the alcohol, and it will be fascinating to see what comes along with the ‘17 vintage.
James Halliday Wine Companion 2019