Ian Hongell is a man in a hurry. Not that you would know it from meeting him. He has an easy, smiling manner and comes across as measured and thoughtful rather than someone in a mad hurry. But the point is a wine grower only has one vintage a year.

“I do feel I’m in a rush. Before you know it your career is over,” he says. A little later he adds: “Every year you finish vintage and you’re thinking about what you’re going to do next year.”