By James Suckling, October 2022
Blackberry, blueberry and some spice aromas here. Sandalwood and cedar. Full-bodied with ultra-fine tannins that spread across the palate and show superb depth of concentration. Yet it’s agile and light-footed. Goes on for minutes. Tight still with illustrious depth and power. 30 months in French oak barrels. 50% new.
2020 The Struie
#81 Top 100 Wine of the World 2022
The black ink and lead pencil aromas are impressive with blackberry and raspberry aromas that are intense and fresh. Full-bodied, blackberry, blueberry and crushed stone. Flavorful and chewy. Lots of center palate here. Wow. This needs time to soften. Great structure and length. Better after 2026..
2020 The Pict
This is a fantastic mataro (mourvedre) with the classic bark, bay leaf and green undertones, such as rose stem, to the blackberry and blueberry fruit character. Full-bodied with extremely polished and plush tannins that fill the mouth but remain balanced and creamy textured throughout. Flavorful finish. Give it time to come together. Better after 2025.
2019 The Factor
Incredible black ink, blackberry, lead pencil and granite aromas. Hints of spearmint. Bark and mushroom, too. Deep and dark with superb depth and intensity. Tight at the end but then it opens and shows a weightless sensibility. Has vineyards back to the 1900s. Drinkable but better in 2024.
Terrific intensity and depth with blackberry, blueberry, black ink, graphite and umami. Pencil shavings. Full and very fine with depth and richness. Co-fermented with 8% viogner. This is a wine that seduces you with its aromas and complexity. You just want to smell it. Give it three to four years to open. Try after 2025.
2021 Woodcutter's Shiraz
Lovely ripened blackberries and raspberries. Al dente. Full-bodied yet so refined and focused with crisp acidity and ultra-fine, creamy tannins. Succulent and crunchy but focused and structured. Bright and purposeful. Drink after 2024 but already hard to hold back. Screw cap.
2020 Harris Grenache
An impressive blackberry and blueberry with iron and pencil shavings on the nose and palate. Full and dense with focus and polish. Unique mineral undertone to this. Drive and focused. Drinkable but a year or two will make it even better.
2020 Hillside Vineyard Grenache
Made from bush vines planted in 1949 with subtle cloves and black pepper. Some asphalt. Medium-bodied with fine tannins. Chalky texture with black fruits and crushed stone minerality to it. Pure grenache. Spicy. Drink or hold.
2017 The Laird
Blackberry, black mushroom, black truffle, and black dirt. Purple fruit. Roasted meat and wet earth. It full-bodied, rich and powerful with chocolate and toasted oak. Impressive depth and power. This was a wetter year so not the depth as normal years but still impressive. A little warm at the end. Planted in 1958.
2020 The Gask
A tight red with blackberry, crushed stone, iron, and wet earth aromas and flavors. It’s medium-bodied, firm and silky tannins with bright fruit and a fresh finish. Linear at the end. Closed now. Drinkable but give it time. Better after 2025.
2021 Cuvee Juveniles
Aromas of graphite, slate, and dark berry with some nutmeg. Medium-bodied with attractive fruit and fine, delicate tannins that give form to the wine and deliver fresh and medium fruit on the finish. So drinkable and delicious. Very savory. The crushed black pepper really comes through. 47% grenache, 32% mataro, 10% carignan, 9% counoise, and 2% syrah.
2020 The Steading
Lots of blue fruits, graphite and black pepper here. Hints of crushed stone. Fresh and vivid. Fine tannins run through the center palate and set it up nicely. Medium body. Creamy finish. 65% grenache, 20% shiraz, and 15% mataro. Partial whole bunch. Drink or hold
2019 Les Amis
A solid and rather chunky grenache, this is muscular. It’s full-bodied yet formed and framed with serious tannins that are polished and flexing. Lots of blackberry and lead pencil. Savory. Juicy. Hints of wood at the end. This needs three or four years to come together. Better after 2024.
2022 Wodcutter's Semillon
A bright and fresh semillon with sliced green apples, pears and mineral aromas and flavors. Some aniseed. It’s medium-bodied with crisp acidity. Real Aussie semillon. So fresh and beautiful. Tangy and driven. Subtle. These are grapes from vineyards planted in sand in 1890. Drink or hold. Screw cap.
2022 Cuvee Juveniles Blanc
A new white from Torbreck. Fantastic honeysuckle and sliced white pineapple with green apple and pear with floral undertones. Flinty too. It’s medium to full body. Crisp and vivid. Complex and refreshing. A blend of 47% roussanne, 25% marsanne, 19% clairette, 7% grenache blanc, and 2% viognier. Drink now. Screw cap.