JamesSuckling.com | Ryan Montgomery | November 2024
96
Ryan Montgomery JAMES SUCKLING
The Laird 2019
A warm, low-yielding vintage. Sourced from vineyards dating from the 1960s, prone to cooling afternoon breezes that facilitate a long hang-time and supple tannins. Violet, clove and cardamon notes. A complex potpourri of spices confers savoriness to the blue and black fruit. The oak is toasty but well placed to corral and compress the fruit rather than overwhelm it. Drinkable now, but best from 2028.
97
Ned Goodwin JAMES SUCKLING
The Forebear 2019
A brand new cuvee. The inaugural release comprises fruit from a proprietary property in Lyndoch, documented as the second winery built in the Barossa Valley. Vineyard planted in 1850s on its own rootstock. I really like this. An earlier picked site, spending two years in oak and three years in the bottle pre-release. Despite the typical Barossan weight, there is ample freshness. Baking spice, licorice, saturated dark fruit, iodine and forest accents. The tannin structure is chewy and nourishing. Long finish. Plenty to get the teeth into. This is an excellent wine. Drinkable now, but best from 2030.
97
Ryan Montgomery JAMES SUCKLING
RunRig 2021
Lifted and aromatic with deeply brooding aromas of blood plums, blackberries, cured meat, citrus rind, potpourri, violets and iodine. The palate is full-bodied with firmly integrated tannins and finely focused acidity, giving notes of mocha, mulberries, olive tapenade and black pepper. Wonderfully balanced, with a seamless texture and a never-ending finish. Excellent.
94
Ryan Montgomery JAMES SUCKLING
Les Amis 2021
Wonderfully perfumed aromas of wild blackberries, tobacco leaves, ferric earth and menthol. The palate is full-bodied with fine tannins and bright acidity, giving notes of blackcurrants, mocha and dried herbs. Powerful with an underlying freshness. Made from a dry-grown vineyard planted in the 1960s.
95
Ned Goodwin JAMES SUCKLING
The Factor 2021
Northern Barossa sourcing, encompassing Ebenezer and Moppa. Quintessentially old school. Chocolate, dried fruit, clove, coffee bean and densely packed dark berry allusions, all compressed by a swathe of licorice tannins, funneling the forceful finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2026.
95
Ryan Montgomery JAMES SUCKLING
Descendant 2021
A tad of viognier added to shiraz propagated as a massale selection. No new oak, but uses second-fill barrels that still impart subtle oak tannins. A broad style, full-bodied, palate-staining and forceful, yet there is admirable detail and a degree of finesse. Blueberry, camphor, licorice, tapenade and ironstone accents, lurking behind the pithy quince and apricot tones. From a single vineyard in Marananga that delivers the goods in a superlative vintage. Drinkable now, but best from 2028.
96
Ryan Montgomery JAMES SUCKLING
The Pict 2022
The nose is savory and deeply brooding, with aromas of blood plums, dark chocolate, mulberry bush and cured meat. The palate is medium-bodied with firmly integrated tannins and bright acidity, giving notes of blackberry compote, tobacco leaves, cedar and bay leaves. Firmly structured with a generous texture that will develop nicely in bottle. Drink or hold.
96
Ned Goodwin JAMES SUCKLING
The Struie 2022
Some new oak here, as the material creeps into the older vine zone (60-70 years). Molten aromas of blueberries, lilacs, apricots and iodine, as if there was some viognier in the mix, so lifted and floral is the nose. Typical Eden-Valley lift. Full-bodied yet taut, refined and prodigiously long. If refinement is a construct in a region known for power, this is among the most refined wines of the region. Drinkable now, but best from 2026.
95
Ryan Montgomery JAMES SUCKLING
Hillside Vineyard Shiraz & Roussanne 2023
Deeply scented and brooding, with layers of dark fruit supported by aromas of cured meat, olive tapenade and iodine. The palate has firmly structured tannins and a full-bodied mouthfeel, showing notes of white pepper, spices and blackberry compote. Co-fermented with 8% roussanne. A very powerful and giving wine that will soften nicely in bottle
94
Ryan Montgomery JAMES SUCKLING
Harris Grenache 2022
Floral and lifted aromas of wild raspberries, potpourri, iodine and sweet spices. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and bright acidity, giving notes of raspberries, tobacco leaves and cedar. Very balanced and generous
94
Ryan Montgomery JAMES SUCKLING
The Steading 2022
Very vibrant with a savory undertone, giving aromas of blood plums, blackberry compote, tobacco leaves and cloves. The palate is full-bodied with finely integrated tannins, bright acidity, a generous mouthfeel and notes of dark cherries, dried herbs, iodine and mocha. A balanced yet powerful blend of 50% grenache, 31% shiraz and 19% mataro
93
Ryan Montgomery JAMES SUCKLING
Cuvee Juveniles 2023
Vibrant and lifted aromas of wild blackberries, raspberries, tobacco leaves and ferric earth. The palate is medium-bodied with finely integrated tannins and focused acidity, giving notes of blackberries, dried herbs and cured meat. Fresh with a savory undertone. A blend of 48% grenache, 28% mataro, 13% carignan, 6% counoise and 5% shiraz.
94
Ryan Montgomery JAMES SUCKLING
Woodcutter's Shiraz 2023
A refined yet savory nose of blackcurrants, wild blackberries, mocha and iodine. The palate is full-bodied with finely integrated tannins and bright acidity, giving notes of mulberry bush, olive tapenade and ferric earth. Very chewy and structured with an underlying freshness. Delicious.
93
Ryan Montgomery JAMES SUCKLING
Woodcutter's Semillon 2024
Vibrant and fresh, with aromas of white nectarines, peaches and lemon pith. The palate is medium-bodied with focused acidity and a generous mouthfeel, giving notes of lime zest, chalk and mandarin rind. Easygoing with a nice texture.
98
Ryan Montgomery JAMES SUCKLING
The Bothie NV
Majority muscat à petits grains, fortified and run across a long, deep solera. This is a glorious expression. A wine with levity and density, power and grace, sweetness and a palpable dryness. Its very fresh, with a well-served jolt of volatility across the infinite finish. Think cloves, dates, cardamon, fennel seeds, orange bitters and the scents of an exotic bazaar. A gorgeous elixir with endless possibilities at the table and a drinking window that, frankly, is endless. Drinkable now, but will hold for years.
