By James Suckling, May 2023
I rated all the new releases of Torbreck in the Barossa Valley, and I was excited by the quality of the 2021 wines coming out. Ian Hongell, the winemaker and head of the winery, explained that the vintage was very cool and long and that the extra “hang time” for the fruit made more balanced, refined, structured, and coolly flavorful reds.
The Laird 2018
97 Points
Intense and focused aromas of black licorice, lead pencil, blackberries, blueberries, blue slate, and purple flowers. Full-bodied and very powerful, but there’s a superb polish and sophistication to the wine with lots of new wood, but it’s also composed and focused. It’s dense, but not over done. Sophistication even with such old school concentration. Comes from vines planted in 1958. Something you won’t forget from this single parcel if you taste it. Three years in barrel. This still needs four to five years of bottle age.
RunRig 2020
97 Points
This is so aromatic with flowers, orange blossom, and black berries with sliced mushrooms and earth. Surreal. Medium to full body, with bark and blackberry character. Some bramble berry, too. Chewy and delicious. Old vine uniqueness. Some grapes come from vines as old as 1858.
The Struie 2021
95 Points
This is fantastic with blackberries, peaches, and limes with some spice character. Graphite. Medium body. Fine and polished tannins with a fantastic deep silk texture and a long finish. Really want to drink this. Drink or hold.
The Gask 2021
96 Points
The firmness and focus here is really something with lead pencil shavings and graphite, with some red fruits underneath which then turns to bark and mushroom. Forest floor. Unique. Drinkable, but even better in three or four years.
The Factor 2020
95 Points
Intense iron and blackberries with black olives. Salted licorice. Dried decadent meat, too. Full and rich with an intensity and density, yet it goes on and on. Muscular yet racy. This needs a few years to open, but not over done. Plenty of intensity. Drink after 2025.
Descendant 2020
95 Points
Dried berries, smoke, mushrooms and ink on the nose. Medium- to full-bodied with a juicy and fruity character. Muscular and agile. Dancing. This is shiraz with a touch of viognier and no new wood. Co-fermented. Drink or hold, but better in 2025.
Hillside Vineyard Grenache 2021
94 Points
Lovely dried strawberries with hints of chocolate and walnut on the nose and palate. Medium body with some floral notes and a juicy finish. A freshness and brightness here. Agile. The vineyards were planted in 1949. So attractive now but will age well. Drink or hold.
The Steading 2021
94 Points
I like the tannin tension to this with berry, dried meat and spice aromas and flavors. It’s medium-bodied with a firmness and brightness. Juicy finish. Nice texture at the end. Vivid. Grenache, shiraz and mataro. Drink or hold.
Les Amis 2020
92 Points
Some sweet and candied berry character with some milk chocolate and cedar undertones. Medium body. Tile and berry. More typical shiraz from Barossa. Ripe fruit, but tangy. Hints of vanilla. Drink or hold.
Cuvee Juveniles 2022
92 Points
This is a really crunchy red made from grenache, mataro, carignan and counoise with plenty of bright fruit, with open tannins and a savory and spicy finish. Torbreck calls it a lunchtime red. Agreed. Delicious now. Screw cap.